Tuning

Tuning (well, setting the actuation point)

best viewed at 1024x768 (DISCLAIMER: I DO NOT and WILL NOT take any responsibility for anything that you mess up. If you screw your car up, do not complain to me. This is the process that I followed and it worked for me. If it did not work for you, I am sorry. I am providing this to show my experience and how I dealt with things.)

TUNING STEPS:

Ok, you've got your engine back together and your ready to go right? Not quite... We still have the problem of the 6-ports and the VDI operation! The 6 ports are very easy as long as you decided to keep your ACV. If you did, all that you have to do is attach the actuators to the waste hose from the ACV. The ACV dumps the air from the air-pump at 3800 RPM. This just happens to be the perfect time for the 6-ports to open.

The VDI is a little different... I initially I had the VDI opening with the 6-ports, but that killed the power from 4000 to 5000. So I broke down and got myself an RPM switch from www.summitracing.com :

This is summit part number #SUM-830449 and cost $45.95.

The switch is "supposed" to be adjustable from 2000 to 9800 RPM in 200 RPM increments, but that is for normal piston engines. When I hooked it up to the tachometer output from the leading coil, the adjustable range was actually 4000 to 19,600 in 400 RPM increments. But for my purpose, this was perfect because I set it for "2400" RPM on the dip switches and it turns on perfectly at 5000/5100 RPM.

So what did I hook the switch up to? Remember the EGR solenoid that I removed? Well, I hooked it up to the RPM switch so that it opens when the switch is on. The air supply comes from the air-pump.

Here is where I mounted the solenoid:

So how does it work? One word: Perfect! It was $50 well spent. I would have liked to possibly hook the 6-ports up to an RPM switch, but they work flawlessly hooked up the ACV. I guess, now that I've got everything done, its time to start my next project... hummm...

Tuning